History, give or take a little...

I woke in the very fancy English townhome known as Pulteney House.  It is literally a "Town Home."  A home in town.  The wealthy would have country estates and a home in town.  I stayed "downstairs."  If you are a Downton fan, you'd know immediately that this would be the servants area.  My room was likely a sleeping room or possibly a larger work room as it was just inside the side entrance-not up the grand staircase in the foyer.  Today, it is a nice bedroom with an en suite.  If you ever get to Bath I highly recommend Pulteney house. They also serve a very lovely breakfast. 

I'm not sure what it is about me and rain, but once again as I started to set out on foot for the city, it started to rain cats and dogs.  I waited the bloody storm out (a mere 10 minutes) and walked to town in clear, but brisk skies. The rest of the morning was regal in Bath.  Bath was first "founded" by the Romans who harnessed the natural warm spring waters, but the spring was later lost to disrepair and flooding and only rediscovered 150 years ago or so.  Unfortunately, I ran out of time to take the tour of the actual Bath as the queue was astonishingly long. The waters from the springs have long been said to cure anything and even impregnanted a queen with a male child-hence the Queens bath.  Unfortunately, that King and queen were later over-thrown. 

However, I did get to go to Bath Abbey. There have been three religious buildings on the sight of Bath Abbey; a Saxon monastery, a Norman church ,  and the present day Abbey.  The first King of England was crowned in Bath Abbey in 973 AD. 

The current building was started in 1499 but stood as a carcass until the reign of Queen Elizabeth (the first, not the current one) who provided the money to finish the building but declared that Bath could have only one parish (it had five at the time) and that it would be called Bath Abbey. The building itself is a  beautiful upright Gothic style and has 52 stained glass windows-reportedly, one for each day of the week. I was able to go into the Abbey early for morning prayer.  

That also allowed me to snap a few pictures before the hoards of people came through.  You can also climb to the top of the top of the Abbey tower but in the Intermintent downpours and the 212 steps, I opted to take the Mayor's walking tour instead. 

The walking tour took 2 and a quarter hours and I got the majority of my Fitbit goal accomplished in that time.  I also saw pretty much everything in the city and learned a lot of interesting, although not necessarily true, "history."  The city, was once fortified by an encompassing wall. The whole of the city was remarkably small-you could walk the outside wall in 12 minutes.  The Abbey sits off to the side, and there is a kings bath in the drawing but the guide spoke of the Queens baths nearby-which I never could quite figure out if they were an off-shoot or a different spring from the Roman baths.  

Much later, in Victorian times, Jane Austen frequented Bath and parts of the city show up in her stories.  I have to admit I haven't read much of them, but none the less it was a fun bit of trivial history to learn. We also learned about Victorian manners, dinner protocol and well-other issues such as the "necessary houses", chamber pots, and the Victorian version of the honey wagon. I sh*t you, not! 

Bath has the fifth highest housing costs in GB, and the houses in this little did day-called the circus (don't know why-it's just a giant round about) range from £4.6 MM to government subsidized. Interestingly, they are all listed as historically significant, having been around for a long time and designed by a famous architect.  Yet, some are government subsidized housing-which is a bit like section 8 housing but without the social stigma, I am told.  The homes vary, of course, inside-the more expensive one had an indoor pool and 7 bathrooms while (whilst-if your British) the smaller was a two bed room, one bath and sadly-no pool.  

The other famous landmark of Bath is the bridge that was built with private funds and included shops on the bridge.  It's highlighted in all the literature, but really didn't seem to be a highlight of the tour.  It's a pretty bridge none the less and with all the rain the area has had, the river was flooding its banks.  

And with that, the afternoon had snuck up on me so I retrieved my luggage back at Pulteney house, and just as I was leaving-can you guess?  YES!  It rained again!  When I return home, you may want to consider building an ark.  It seems I have magical powers or I will be having a dream soon that encourages me to take in animals two at a time.  

Much to my amazement, I made it from Bath to Paddington on the Great Western Train, from Paddington to Edgewater on the circle line to change to the Hammersmith &City line to St Pancreas to get on the Eurostar with plenty of time to Spare.  I'm still pinching myself and waiting to find out I boarded the wrong train altogether and have ended up in Florence instead of Paris. However, look at the loo in the Eurostar!  It's so funny!  It's a Crapper!   

Make way, we're heading out!

Today Libby showed me around her campus and it was so very pretty.  Although there has been a university on the site for a very long time, the majority of the buildings were built after 1950.  It sits atop a hill and is a compact university setting.  I saw this sign on campus, and she claims it's pronounced /ZEY-brah/.  I secretly think they have stripped animals on campus. 

After our campus tour, she made us a delicious lunch of bangers and mash, which is sausage, mashed potatoes, peas, and an onion brown gravy and it s delicious!  She's a great cook!  Can't wait for her to come home and cook for me. 

Then she needed to get ready to head off with the University band to go to Paris to busk in the street, visit Disneyland Paris, and do whatever it is university band kids do.  After a brief practice, they were going to meet at the Impe (/imp-y/) pub before riding a coach and ferry to overnight to Paris. The Impe is the neat this pub she took me to for the fish and chips on my first night in the most clever old home.  This room is called the Orangerie. 

This meant I was on my own once again.  I headed off to the train station in an absolute driving rainstorm, which ceased as soon as I hit the station.  I got my tickets from the self serve kiosk but the trains don't have a number associated with them like flights, so you need to know the end destination of the train.  I always forget this, and so had to ask.  I lugged my now giant suitcase-oh, wait!  There's another story.  On the way TO Libby, my little pink suitcase handle started to lose the screws and the arms of the telescoping handle got very wobbly.  I intended to duct tape the handle together and even got the supplies and gave it a go.  In the end, it didn't seem like it was going to hold through three more train juries and two flights so I dashed up to the department store and bought new luggage-yay!  And because Libby had asked me to bring home about the equivalent of another carry one suitcase, I bought a bigger one. I can still lift it though-for now. 

I did manage to get myself to Bath through shear luck, seriously. Only narrowly not missing my connecting train by being completely clueless.  Then, got to my accommodations in the darkening late evening.  The train ride was lovely-although this part of the country has had a LOT of rain!

Tomorrow, I will explore Bath for a bit and then venture to London and take the Eurostar to Paris...if all goes according to plan.  

Death, Earls, Cider & Daniel Craig-a pretty good day, I'd say!

Today's goal was to avoid death. Yes, it was a lofty goal, but one I thought, with hard work and disciplined focus, I could achieve.  Let me remind you that in the UK they drive on the "other" side of the roadway.  (Previously, I said the wrong side but I was corrected to say the other side because it was much less offensive...) now, I am not driving in the UK, but I am walking about in the cathedral city of Exeter. [Tangent here, so skip to the end of the bracket if you'd like: Apparently, it is quite a distinction to be a City, and a cathedral can be one of the things that can be shown that makes the area worthy of the distinction that can only be granted by the reigning monarch.  In fact, in the UK there are only 69 cities as of 2014 (thank you Wikipedia)].  Since Exeter has been around, oh,I don't know, for 2016 years--give or take a couple of decades--the streets are a bit narrow.  The cars literally stir the air next to you as they pass by.  And they are coming from the direction opposite than I am expecting so I pretty much spent most of the day being startled by the car coming out of "nowhere."  Thankfully, the innate genetic reflexive "mama seatbelt"--you know, the straight arm swinging out horizontally barring further forward movement of the neighboring person--is alive and well in Libby.  She saved my life several times-and we found Depends disposable underwear on offer, so the rest of the trip should be without further embarrassment. (Just kidding!) 

This morning we had a lovely brunch date with a Kansas City native now living in Exeter who has been a big help to my big Jayhawk birdie. She and her fabulous husband have made sure that Libby did not fall off the face of the UK, helped get bedding and other necessities, and today she even drove us to Powderham Castle utilizing the "other" side of the road. It was a little surreal--like having a self driving car--so I kept one eye closed. 

Her lovely husband, an Englishman, gave me a proper goodbye saying Cherrio when we parted ways.  I felt I was in a Colin Firth movie, and I kept waiting for Daniel Craig to show up in a tux. (As long as I'm dreaming, I'll dream big!)

There was no lightening and no thunder, but we did have a proper rainstorm with actual drops of rain as opposed to the drizzle and fog that is more customary of English weather.  Of course, Libby and I both left our umbrellas at the flat, so we made due with our jacket hoods.  Earlier, weather.com had warned of a "wind disruption," which made me giggle.  I'm not entirely sure what that means, but I do know that had we remembered our umbrellas they likely would have ended up in the rubbish bin anyhow.  

The raindrops blew across the estate of Powderham Castle is great sheets. It was actually a sight to see, and thankfully we saw it while on tour in the inside.  It is quite a lovely Castle, and older than the USA!  So let that sink in for just a bit. It's been in the same family for 28 generations and the Courtenay family still lives in about a third of the building. The property came into the family in 1325 and the castle was begun in 1361.

It has secret doors and passage ways but unfortunately, I was not allowed to take pictures inside. But they have a Facebook page, so have a look there. 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Powderham-Castle

The estate sits next to a deer sanctuary, but the smart animals were taking cover somewhere out of the rain so we did not see them and did not go looking for them. But here is a web photo I found of the little cuties.

It was a fun tour, complete with family gossip!  

To return to Exeter we road a double decker bus; it was very fun and very British! That big bus on those narrow streets was a carnival ride-or as close as I'd like to get to one for a good long while. After that excitement, we stopped by the Old Firehouse for a bit of resuscitating--and cider.  (The Old Farmhouse is a local pub-and for Harry Potter fans, is said to be the inspiration for the Leaky Cauldron.)  Devon (the county in which Exeter is situated) is known for its cider, so Libby had a sweet one and I had a dry one...and neither had bubbles. They were much different than the cider in the states and I liked it better.

My beloved Jayhawks play tonight, however, it will be at 2:30 am my time (which is 30 minutes after day light savings time begins here tonight-not sure what that will do to the jet lag as I am struggling to stay up until 8 or 9 again tonight.) I will be cheering them on though, in my dreams and my KU Tshirt! RCJH all the way from Exeter, England and with my big Jayhawk birdie! 

Met the Big Birdie!

Because of the time change, it really feels like I've spent all day Thursday and all day Friday traveling and waiting. I've seen four airports, three train stations and a least 13 million people.   And Dumbledore driving a boat as the Great Western Rail train taking me to Exeter passed over the river...I'm sure that my lack of sleep and intake of healthy nutrients did not make me imagine that long white beard and large pointy hat on the old man behind the captains wheel. 

The Icelandair flight was quite nice, aside from the loud American who thought it was humorous to loudly say "what?" in increasing volume several times each hour to wake his family, and the rest of the plane. So, I am a bit more tired than I had hoped to be. Upon arrival for my layover in Rekyivek, I had thought I'd get coffee but I opted for water and yogurt just to tide me over in hopes that I could get some sleep on the flight to London.  I found a nice quiet corner of the small airport just to be still and peaceful since my body thought it was 1:30 am. Until four of the loudest (not Americans) humans came and sat right in my space and continued to holler and to laugh and lounge about-at 6:30 AM Icelandic time!!!  I got up and left my previously quiet corner.  I was in no mood to listen to the holler family.  I found a new place next to a sleeping couple-that was more my speed. Soon enough there was a mob of people in the terminal with no real order- and no chairs either.  When they called our boarding, it was a bit like cows being called to feed.  A mad push toward the gate.  Much to my surprise, we walked outside and up the gateway stairs into the plane.  It was a touch windy and cold! 

 Iceland is an amazing place to see the northern lights, and Icelandair replicates that on its planes above the baggage hold with the magic of LED lights.  Awwww, science.  I also had an empty middle seat so I could stretch out a bit. I zonked out on that flight as it was finally quiet.  I made it into, through, and out of Heathrow in lightening speed.  So fast in fact, that I was able to catch an earlier train out of Paddington to Exeter.  Paddington was a mad house.  I forgot it was Easter weekend.  The train, although earlier than the one I had originally planned, was running late and when it was finally announced it was another mad dash to the platform.  It's all a bit confusing if you are not familiar with it.  I had bought a supersaver ticket which is good only at certain times of the day, and did not have a reserved seat--like GA at the baseball stadium.  

But, the first car I got on had all these little tickets sticking up from the seats which Libby had told me meant they were reserved seats.  Of course, I didn't see the tickets until I had slung my suitcase up on the luggage rack at the car entry, dropped my drink, and my purse, and gathered everything back up to turn around to see those damn tickets sticking up.  So, I sheepishly turned around, already having apologized for holding up the line and said "I believe I'm in the wrong car because all of these..." And was interrupted by a stuffy uppity British man in a Kelly green blazer with light yellow pin stripes.  He loudly said, " do you think we could pass by already?"  I finished my sentence apologizing that I would have to get off because these were reserved seats, and I did not have a reserved ticket.  Turns out, neither did old Mr. Crotchety. So here we both are in the lowly peasant rail car. Ha! 

After passing sheep, horse, swan, kayakers, farm land, scrap metal processing yards, beautiful steepled churches, a plethora of chimney adorned roofs that would make Mary Poppins proud, and through some absolutely movie worthy train stations, I arrived at Exeter St David's a little worse for wear but oh so giddy to see my happy healthy beaming big Jayhawk birdie! 

I had a quick shower, met two of her flat mates and took a whirlwind walking tour of the town of Exeter-all on about four hours of sleep. My lovely Jayhawk birdie took me out to a proper pub for Good Friday fish and chips to fill my reserves for tomorrow.  She has big plans for us, so I am told.

 As I sign off for tonight, it's right at quitting time in the USA and  9 pm in merry old England.  For this old bird, it's bed time.  I think I've earned this sleep.  

Wait, wait, wait! No sleep 'till (Exeter!)

Two days ago the world gasped in horror when the terrorist bombed the transportation hubs of Brussels.  I found out about it when I started my day in my normal course--by checking Facebook.  The pictures were horrifying, but the reality was a sucker punch in the gut for me.  Libby is studying abroad in England and I was due to set off on an 18 day adventure to visit her on Thursday.  Today is Thursday and I've made it on the first leg of my journey--Kansas City to Boston, non-stop on Southwest. In 24 hours, if all goes as planned, I will be squeezing my girly Easter bunny.

Yes, I am going.  Yes, I think I will be fine.  The odds are ever in my favor.  Seriously.  I was more likely to be harmed driving to the airport in Kansas City than to be the victim of a terrorist attack during my European travels.  And I keep reminding myself of that, because yes, I am frightened.  But I've never been one to shy away from a challenge.  As most who know me will attest, the moment someone tells me it's not possible to do something, I'm going to find a way to do it. I'm not an adrenaline junky.  I don't take unnecessary risks.  I take calculated cautious risks that should result in a beneficial payoff.  Is this trip a risk? Yes.  But it's no more of a risk than I'm willing to take to see my oldest birdie at a university she loves on an adventure of a lifetime and make lifelong memories with her with a very high probability that I will return to my nest to see and be with my boy birdies for the spring and summer.  And with all of us for as long as the good Lord is willing. 

So, what's the plan, Nan?  Well, let me tell you!  After organizing the house sitter, the dog sitter, the cat sitter, stopping the mail, the milk, and making sure that the bills were all paid up while I was gone, I picked up the house-for the most part-and caught a ride with my mom to kci.  Yesterday it was 75 or so degrees-until it wasn't.  This morning it snowed.  It was absolutely imperative that I get to Boston because that is officially the start of the international itinerary. So the weather has been on my mind a LOT.  But I am typing this blog entry on board the plane to Boston much to my relief. 

To get to Europe, I found a $775 ticket on Icelandair that got me to London, flies me out of Glasgow Scotland and into Rekyevek  for a five day "layover" before returning to Boston.  If I booked it out of KCI, I had to fly first to Seattle, then back to London-uh, No!  Besides being $400 more expensive it was also 10 hours more in a plane.  Flying out of Denver was an option I considered, but I was worried about the weather when I booked back in Feb and I'm so glad I didn't chose Denver because there was a huge whiteout blizzard that shut the airport down!  So, I got myself to Boston on an 11:30 am Southwest flight with a free ticket (BONUS!).  The only down side is that I have a six hour layover in Boston.  If the weather were better, I would consider going into the city, but I'm not tempting fate.  I will be making do with people watching and eating.  

The next leg is the start of the Icelandair flights.  It leaves Boston at 9:30pm-just as the Jayhawks are playing unfortunately.  But don't worry-I have my red sweater, blue coat, and Jayhawks gems on! I'm hoping the plane has wifi, I can stream it, and it doesn't go into overtime because I'll need some sleep. 

 

The flight will land in Rekyivek at 6:30 am (1:30 am central) and I have another hour and a half layover. I will try to start adjusting to the time difference then with a stiff cup of coffee and breakfast.  Then it is a two and a half hour flight to London, landing at 11:30 local time ( 10:30 am Iceland time-I think, and 5:30 am central time-I think.) 

From London Heathrow, I'll take an express train into London city center to a large station called Paddington (like the bear) where I have a bit of a wait-probably an hour-to catch the 2 pm local time (8 am central-I think) train to Exeter where I should arrive at 4:30pm local time (10:30 am central).  For those keeping track-I needed to arrive at KCI an hour before my 11:30 am flight which meant I left my house at 9:45 am central.  I will literally travel for 24 hours with choppy bits of sleep in four different time zones.  

Once I arrive, we will celebrate good Friday with traditional fish and chips...and an early bedtime for mama Bird!